With Christmas just around the corner, instead of the usual chew toys & dog treats why not treat your dog or someone else’s dog to a pampering session for only £25.00.
Contact Groomability on 07549 527244 or email info@groomability.co.uk, once purchased we will email your gift voucher as an attachment, (Please quote the unique reference number at the bottom of the voucher when making a booking).
Everyone loves a good game of fetch with their dog. It’s perfect for getting exercise and having fun. But the downside to the game is that there is no thinking involved just a lot of running back and forth. So many games with dogs, from fetch to tug of war, don’t require them to do a whole lot of thinking. On the other hand, interactive brain games not only tire out your energetic dog, but they also defeat boredom, increase your dog’s confidence, and strengthen the bond between the two of you as you work together as a team. So many great activities that you can do with your dog are simply dog-versions of favorite kids’ games, all of which exercise the brain as much as the body.
Here are some ideas to get you started :
Treasure Hunt
Getting your dog to use his nose to find hidden treasure is a great way to stimulate his brain and teach him to use all his senses. Starting out, you’ll want to set your dog up for success so he understands the game and doesn’t get too discouraged. Begin with something simple. Put your dog in a sit, stay, and hide a treat or favourite toy somewhere obvious, even letting him watch you hide it. Then give him the release cue to go find the toy. Reward your dog big time for his success in finding the hidden treasure.
Once your dog understands the game, ramp up the difficulty. Hide the treat or toy in another room, or some place where other scents mask the treat or toy, like the bottom of the laundry bin or under the food dish. You can also make the game really hard by using cardboard boxes. Set up 10-20 cardboard boxes of different sizes and, without your dog seeing, place the reward in only one box. Let your dog investigate
all of them and provide the reward or a jackpot treat when he selects the correct box. There are so many variations on this game that it will have the two of you playing different versions for years to come.
Hide-and-Go-Seek
Boost the excitement and reward level of the popular treasure hunt game by being the treasure your dog is tasked to find. You’ll need to play this with at least two people. One person gives the dog the sit, stay cue and distracts him while the other person hides, then gives the release cue for the dog to start looking. This game works wonderfully both indoors and outdoors, and is a fun way to spend a rainy afternoon with your dog.
Shell Game
If your dog is the betting type, he’ll love this game. Even if he isn’t, he’ll love it because there are treats involved. The shell game is simple, but really challenging. Take two plastic opaque cups and turn them over. With your dog watching, place a treat under a cup. Give your dog the cue to come turn over the cup and get the treat. Do this eight or 10 times, letting your dog really understand the game. Then alternate which cup you place the treat under. When your dog selects the correct cup, let him have the treat. If he doesn’t select the correct cup (and that will happen, even when he sees you placing the treat under the cup), show him the treat under the correct cup but don’t let him have it. Keep him watching which cup you place the treat under so he can guess the right cup. It sounds easy to us, but for many dogs, this requires some serious thinking.
If your dog masters this, it’s time to challenge him even more. Place a treat under the left cup, then slide the cups to switch places, so that the cup with the treat is now on your right. Release your dog to find the treat. If your dog selects the correct cup, give him the treat. If your dog doesn’t select the correct cup, show him the treat but don’t let him have it. Keep repeating this and see if your dog can figure out the trick. Some dogs may never quite get how the treat magically switches sides, this is a tough game using visual tracking, and not all dogs make the connection. But if your dog does, bump up the challenge even more by swapping sides randomly. See if he can use his eyes, nose and thinking skills to find the treat after the old switcheroo. Very few dogs will make it to this stage, so don’t be discouraged if your dog isn’t a whiz at the shell game.
New Trick
An activity that boosts your dog’s creativity is the “new trick” game. It’s a popular game in clicker training because it teaches a dog to think independently, coming up with his own ideas about what behavior earns a reward. The premise is simple: click and treat for a new behavior offered by your dog, and ignore a behavior already offered. A typical game between me and my dog looks like this: I say “new trick” and my dog sits. I click and treat, then say “new trick” again. My dog lies down. Click and treat. I say “new trick” and my dog stands and turns in a circle. Click and treat. I say “new trick” and my dog goes and gets a toy and brings it to me. Click and treat. If when I say “new trick” my dog does something again, such as sits or brings me another toy, I tell him, “You already did that” and don’t offer a reward. He then comes up with something new instead and is rewarded. Our rounds of this game can sometimes last 30 or 40 minutes.
When you first try this game with your dog, especially if your dog isn’t used to clicker training for shaping behavior, then start simple. The slightest new thing can earn a treat. For example, set a box next to your dog. Click and treat your dog for looking at the box, for touching it with a paw, for touching it with his nose, for stepping on it, for walking around it, for just about any vague interaction with the box. But don’t reward the same action twice. Your dog touching the box with his nose earns a reward once, but the second time earns nothing. Once your dog gets the grasp of the game, expand it to other behaviors like sit, down, crawl, spin, sit up, and so on. Pretty soon, your dog will be going through your entire repertoire of tricks and coming up with new ones just to earn that treat for creative thinking.
Hot and Cold
The hot and cold game is also ideal for clicker training since it follows the basics of shaping a new behavior. It’s great for brainy dogs who don’t get frustrated too easily. And all you have to do is sit on the couch and say “hot” or “cold” and toss treats. How easy is that! Basically all you do is come up with something you want your dog to do. It can be anything — maybe you notice your keys on the floor and you want your dog to go pick them up and bring them to you. Simply kick back with your bag of treats, and any time the dog makes a move that edges them closer to the keys, say “hot” with enthusiasm and toss a treat to the dog where they are. If your dog moves away from the chosen goal, quietly say “cold.” If they move back toward the chosen goal, excitedly say “hot!” and toss a treat. You can get your dog to go touch the doorknob on the other side of the room, grab a blanket from the couch, or pretty much any behavior you can think of.
52-Toy Pickup
Cleaning up has never been so fun! To get your dog understanding the game, you’ll want to start with “drop it.” Getting your dog to drop a toy on command is a key component to getting him to the next step of dropping it in a particular location. After you have a solid drop-it, start shaping your dog to dropping toys in a basket or box. Click and treat stages of the behavior a little at a time, such as your dog heading toward the basket with the toy, or dropping the toy near the basket. Anything that leads closer to the behavior of dropping the toy in the basket. Eventually, your dog will understand that a command like “put it away” means to grab a toy and take it to the basket, drop it in, and leave it there.
After this part is mastered, build up to the number of toys your dog picks up. Start with rewarding your dog each time he puts a toy away. Then reward him only after he puts away two toys, then only after three toys and so on. Eventually, the reward will only come when every toy is put away, and you’ll have a dog running around the room finding every toy as quickly as he can in order to win that wonderful jackpot reward of a handful of treats.
Just remember, it takes time to build up to this, and the journey is all part of the game, so have patience. It took me quite a few clicker sessions with my dog before he finally got the “put it away” game down, but watching him figure things out was all part of the fun. Note in the video below that I don’t say much of anything while my dog is figuring out what to do. I let him continue to try, continue to work out for himself the puzzle of what’s being asked, and reward him when he gets it right (or nearly right). Silence, or just a tiny bit of encouragement when your dog gets frustrated, goes a long way in helping a dog figure out the trick quickly while also gaining confidence.
The Name Game
So your dog can put toys away, but can he put toys away by name? A great game to play with your dog is teaching him the name of specific toys, and then sending him to go get that particular toy. There are dogs famous for their vocabulary, so even the most stubborn of dogs can learn the names of at least a couple of toys. It just takes a lot (a lot!) of repetition to hammer home the name. One way to get started is to hold a toy, say its name, let your dog grab it, then reward your dog for grabbing the toy. Let’s say it’s a rubber tug toy named Tug. Hold Tug in one hand, say “Tug,” let your dog grab Tug, and give a reward. Repeat this 20 or 30 times. Then set Tug next to a very different toy of equal value, like a rope toy named Rope. Say “Tug” to your dog and if your dog selects Tug, give a reward. If your dog doesn’t select Tug but selects Rope instead, say nothing but place Rope back next to Tug. Say “Tug” again and let your dog choose. Once your dog is consistently selecting Tug, place it next to another different toy, and repeat the steps until your dog is always choosing Tug over other toys of equal value.
Once your dog is successful with one toy’s name, start the whole process over with a different toy, like Rope. Hold Rope, say “Rope,” let your dog grab Rope, and give a reward, repeating this 20 or 30 times. Set Rope next to a different toy (but not the first toy, Tug), say “Rope,” and only reward your dog when they select Rope. Say nothing if he selects the other toy, but return it next to Rope and try again. Keep repeating until you have the same consistent success that your dog had with Tug.
Once you’ve established Rope and Tug and your dog knows the names of these two toys, it’s time for a test. Place Rope and Tug next to each other, and ask for Tug. Reward only if your dog chooses Tug. Keep trying until your dog is successful a few times, then switch to asking for Rope. When your dog has this down, consistently selecting the toy you ask for, you’re ready to take the test farther by adding in a few more unnamed toys. See if your dog can pick out Tug or Rope from the small pile. If you have success with two toys, then keep the process going for more toys. Who knows how many your dog will learn!
Ingredients
You’ve probably seen it happen—your sleeping dog suddenly lets out a woof as his legs begin to twitch. Is he dreaming?
Many scientists say there is evidence to support the idea that dogs do, in fact, experience dreams. Researchers using an electroencephalogram (EEG) have tested canine brain wave activity during sleep. They’ve found that dogs are similar to humans when it comes to sleep patterns and brain wave activity. Like humans, dogs enter a deep sleep stage during which their breathing becomes more irregular and they have rapid eye movements (REM). It is during REM sleep that actual dreaming and, often, involuntary movements take place. Dogs may move their legs as if they are running, whine or whimper as if excited, and breathe rapidly or hold their breath for short periods.
Not all dogs dream equally. Research suggests that small dogs dream more than larger dogs. A Toy Poodle may dream once every ten minutes while a Golden Retriever may only dream once every 90 minutes. Dreaming also seems to occur more frequently in puppies. This may be because they are processing huge quantities of newly acquired experiences.
What do dogs dream about? Since no dog has ever told anyone about a dream he’s had, we can only guess. It’s likely that dogs dream in a similar fashion to humans, replaying the everyday activities that make up their existence, like chasing, playing, and eating.
If you’ve ever been tempted to wake your dog during a dream, try and resist. It’s best to “let sleeping dogs lie.” Dogs, like humans, need uninterrupted sleep for healthy mental activity.
Our dogs will perform cartwheels when they know we are making this :
1lb liver (the cheapest you can get will be ok)
1lb granary flour (we have used ordinary plain flour in the past and it’s turned out fine)
3 eggs
1 teaspoon of oil
Splash of milk
2 cloves of garlic (finely chopped)
Using a food processor, mix in all the ingredients (except for the flour) until they’re all blended together.
Tip into a mixing bowl & hand fold fold in the flour until all the flour is mixed in.
Put the mix into a microwave safe rectangular or square dish, spread the mix around the dish making sure it’s into all the corners and nice and even, cover with cling film & piece the cling film several times then cook on high setting for ten minutes (once it’s cooked it will appear soft and wet but once cooled it will be be clean and dry to touch).
Once cooled, cut in little bite size pieces and use as a treat or as a training aid.
Every year, hundreds of dogs in the UK are involved in road accidents, suffer from heatstroke or swallow poisonous substances. Knowing what to do in an emergency could save your pet’s life.
Sometimes, outside normal hours, it is difficult to decide whether urgent attention is needed. You can always call and ask for advice.
You should phone the vet if:
Prevention is better than cure. Even a well-behaved dog should be kept on a lead anywhere near traffic, including slow moving vehicles. Do not have the collar so loose that the dog can get free.
If the worst happens, beware of other cars. Talk gently to the dog as you approach. Move slowly and avoid making sudden movements. Put a lead on if possible and, if necessary, muzzle before handling. If your dog can walk, go to the vet, even if there appears to be no pain. There may be internal injuries that are not immediately obvious.
If the dog cannot walk, small dogs can be picked up by placing one hand at the front of the chest and the other under the hindquarters. Improvise a stretcher for larger dogs with a coat or a blanket. If the dog is paralysed, there may be a spinal injury, so try to find something rigid, such as a board. Slide the patient gently on to this if possible. Cover with a blanket to reduce heat loss.
Keep the dog quiet and calm. Put on a tight bandage. Improvise with a towel or some clothing if necessary. If blood is seeping through, apply another tight layer. Only use a tourniquet as a last resort. For places you cannot bandage, press a pad firmly onto the wound and hold it in place. Get to the vet straight away.
If you have bandaging materials, place a non-adhesive dressing on the wound and cover with swabs or cotton bandage. Then place a layer of cotton wool. Cover this with more cotton bandage. Stick this to the hair at the top with surgical tape, and cover the whole with adhesive bandage or tape. Do not stick elastoplast to the dog’s hair. When bandaging limbs, the foot should be included or it may swell up. Never leave a bandage on for more than 24 hours.
Deal with serious bleeding but do not apply a splint – it is painful and can cause the bone to break through the skin. Confine the patient for transport to the vet. Smaller dogs can be put in a box.
Run cold water over these for at least five minutes, then contact the vet. Do not apply ointments or creams but if there is going to be a delay getting to the vets, you can apply saline soaked dressing to the area. Keep the patient warm.
Try to find packaging from the substance swallowed and have it with you when you phone the vet. If chewing plants is suspected, try to find out the identity of the plant. Call the vet immediately. Do not make your dog sick unless the vet says to do so.
If this happens suddenly, treat it seriously, especially if the dog is a deep chested breed such as a boxer or mastiff. There may also be gulping, dribbling of saliva and attempts to vomit. It could mean there is a life-threatening twist in the stomach. Phone the vet immediately – do not delay.
Get to the vet quickly. Or you may be able to push the ball out by pushing on the throat/neck from the outside.
If the gums or tongue are turning blue or the dog has collapsed, try the following. You will need someone to help you. One person holds the mouth open, while the other reaches inside. Be careful not to get bitten. If you cannot pull the ball out, lay the pet on their side. Push down suddenly and sharply on the tummy just behind the last rib. The person holding the mouth should be ready to grab the ball as it reappears.
If a substance such as paint or tar has got onto the coat or paws, prevent the dog from licking, as it may be toxic. Use an Elizabethan collar (obtainable from vets) if you have one. You may be able to clip off small areas of affected hair. Never use turpentine or paint removers on your dog. You can sometimes remove paint and other substances by bathing the dog in washing up liquid or swarfega, but if a large area is affected, see the vet.
If on a warm or hot day your dog is panting heavily and is distressed and especially if the dog is short nosed (eg a boxer), overweight or has been playing or exercising, think heatstroke! Put the dog somewhere cool, preferably in a draught. Wet the coat with tepid water (cold water contracts the blood vessels in the skin and slows heat loss) and phone the vet. You can offer a small amount of water.
If your dog is having a fit, do not try to hold or comfort the dog, as this provides stimulation, which may prolong the fit. Darken the room and reduce noise.
Remove items, especially anything electrical, away from the dog so they cannot cause injury. Pad furniture with cushions. Call the vet.
If your dog seems shocked, dull or distressed after a fight, call the vet. Otherwise, look at the wound. Puncture wounds to the head or body mean you should consult a vet right away. Injuries to the limbs may not need immediate treatment, unless severe or very painful, but take the dog to the vet within 24 hours, as antibiotics may be required.
If the eye is bulging out of the socket, apply a wet dressing, prevent rubbing or scratching and call the vet. If chemicals have got into the eye, flush with water repeatedly (preferably from an eye drop bottle) and call the vet.
Never put yourself at risk by attempting to rescue a dog.
Wipe away material from the mouth and nose. Hold the dog upside down by the hind legs until the water has drained out. Give resuscitation if breathing has stopped. Even if your pet seems to recover, always see the vet as complications afterwards are common.
If a high voltage supply is involved (non‑domestic, for example, power lines), do not approach. Call the police.
In the home, turn off power first. If this is impossible, you may be able to use a dry non-metallic item, like a broom handle, to push the dog away from the power source. If breathing has stopped, give resuscitation. Call the vet immediately.
Pull out the sting below the poison sac, then bathe the area in water or use a solution of bicarbonate of soda if available. Applying ice will help to soothe. If the sting is in the mouth or throat, contact the vet as it may swell and interfere with breathing.
